12.) The Strangeness of Creel

To see Creel and Copper Canyon was one major goal of the trip. The people who live in this region are indigenous Indians, not traditional Mexicans. They do not speak Spanish. So, the people and culture were of interest to me, as was the beauty of the canyon itself.

Copper Canyon is really a network of seven canyons. They are deeper than the Grand Canyon, but instead of being barren rock, are covered with Apline forest.

We leave San Juanito towards Creel. The road is twisty but not spectacular or heinous. Pretty uneventful ride into Creel. When we get to Creel, we enter the "wrong" side of town. We do not enter the touristy section, but rather the local section. Here are some photos for you to contrast with the "good" side of town.

On the "local" side of town, there was not a gringo to be seen, no Europeans, nobody but mestizo Indians. Jim and I looked like lepers sitting in their streets.







But when you go around to the other side of town and enter on an alternate street, here is what you see...





It is an interesting place, but it is obvious that it is "engineered" for foreigners. While pretty and clean, it is four times more expensive than the other side of town. It is very interesting to note that the two separate sides of town do not even connect to one another via streets. Both main drags go to the town square. The "local" side is north of the square. The "tourist" side is south of the square. From the "tourist" side, you can drive around the square itself, along with its cultural and arts center, but you cannot drive on through to see the other side of town. You have to walk to get there. It is obviously like that by design.

So, while Creel is beautiful, I also see it as not genuine. I actually like San Juanito better, even with all its poverty and junk. At least it is honest and real.

One notable thing is that throughout our entire trip, street vendors were very rare. They simply did not exist - except in Creel. Where there are no gringos, there are few beggars and peddlers. As a result, most gringos have a very warped perception of exactly what a "normal" Mexican is like.

OK, enough social commentary.

Here is Jimmy getting his butt handed to him by an 8 year old Indian girl who refuses to haggle price for the bracelets she is selling. In the end, she just takes her stuff and walks away from Jim.



And here is me sharing an orange soda with a street dog. Yes, I am an animal lover...



Creel is one of those paradoxical places. It is Mexican, but it is a tourist trap at the same time - and a very clean one at that. It is sort of an Eco-destination, with lots of Europeans and other folks coming to the area seeking tree hugging types of vacations.

In the end, it is nice and clean, but I would rather have an authentic, dirty, regular old Mexican town that is real. Not something that is "for show". Creel left me feeling a little put off and manipulated.